Tombstone, Arizona has an uncanny fascination about it. It truly is the icon of the old west. Merely hearing the name of the town too tough to die instantly conjures up a cornucopia of potent, familiar images that include Doc Holliday, bawdy saloons, Wyatt Earp, gunfights, Curly Bill, hanging judges, Boot Hill, and, of course, the infamous gunfight at the OK Corral. Hollywood moguls realized the powerful connotations of the town's name when simply titling the movie with Kurt Russell, Val Kilmer, and Michael Biehn, Tombstone — which says it all. And the diligence and exuberant enthusiasm of Tombstone's current residents have ensured that our two-wheeled horses take us to a place surprisingly similar to what the old hay-burners once carried and pulled strangers to visit.
Basically, all the action that is Tombstone today can be experienced by walking the length of historic Allen Street — both sides. Allen Street is just one block west of Highway 80, the road you'll come to town on, and one block east of Toughnut Street. While hoofing it down Allen Street, you'll pass by, or stop and visit, Big Nose Kate's Saloon, The Crystal Palace, the OK Corral, and too many other fascinating locations to list. There are also some uniquely interesting shops along Allen. You can buy souvenirs of just about anything relative to Tombstone or the old west. Unusual gold and silver jewelry, as well as fine arts, are also available – with the accent on rare and unusual Native American pieces.
One of the coolest things about Tombstone is that many of the shop owners, employees, and residents dress in exceptionally authentic period garb: circa late 180°'s. But they don't just dress the part, many live it — or act it so well that I couldn't tell the difference. Saloon floozies quickly sit down on your knee, wrap an arm around your neck and strike up conversations, while just outside two armed citizens start a dispute that doubtless will end in gunplay. Friendly, weathered, handlebar-mustached Marshals grace many street corners, and are as good with giving helpful directions and making conversation with kids as they are at quickly quelling minor disturbances caused by local riff-raff.
Many unique city-sponsored activities occur in Tombstone throughout the year. See the sidebar for details on how to find out about these unusual events — such as Wyatt Earp Days.
There are only a few ways to get to Tombstone, and they're all good for riders. Using Tucson as a starting point, the fastest way is to head east on I-10 and take exit 303 South at Benson. This puts you on Highway 80, which is a smooth, very well maintained two-lane road running right into Tombstone. The whole ride is only about 85 miles, with roughly 26 miles on the two lane. It's a very enjoyable ride. A mere ten miles outside of Tucson, unobstructed mountain and desert views will start to engulf you. The entire ride down 80 is bordered by some very unusually contoured mountain ranges, and some of the most awe-inspiring high desert plains in the world. Selected hilltop views make it clear to visitors how Geronimo and his band managed to evade over 15,000 Cavalry troops for so long.
My favorite ride to Tombstone from Tucson is through Nogales, Arizona — and this trail offers the attractive option of a quick jaunt into neighboring Nogales, Mexico. Nogales offers its visitors numerous restaurants, bars, and shops. If you want to buy some turquoise jewelry or Native American crafts, this side trip can be well worth the time.
The Nogales route is about 150 miles, but will take nearly 3½ hours because of towns, traffic, etc. Off of I-10 in Tucson, head south on I-19 until it ends, then go northeast (left) on N. West Street until you hit Elm, then turn right. Follow the signs for Business I-19, which is also Grand Avenue. When you get to highway 82 (Patagonia Highway), go east — all the way to Tombstone. By the way, the trip through Nogales will only take about 15 minutes, and traffic is usually very light on weekends. If you want to shop in Old Mexico, turn south at the end of I-19 and follow the signs to the border crossing, but expect more traffic in this direction. I'd suggest parking your steed (and locking it up) on the US side, and making the short walk across the border into Nogales, Mexico.
Along Highway 82, several desirable options will crop up between breathtaking mountain and desert views — even some greenery will show itself! About twenty miles after getting off of I-19, you'll be passing through Patagonia. The ride into town is superb: good roads, gentle curves, ridges, valleys, and conspicuously copious greenery. Go about half way into town, then turn right for one block and you can't miss the historical rail station. It's a great place to stop, take pictures, check the tires, and rip that 4 pound bug off the center of your windshield. Drinks and snacks are right across the street — in either direction.
About 12 miles later you'll get to Sonoita. Sonoita is really more of a busy intersection than a town, but I've been going there and stopping for fuel, lunches, and cold drinks for over twenty years, and still relish each visit. I'll frequently shoot down to Sonoita just for lunch, dinner or to meet some other riders something Sonoita never lacks. It's a great ride! I-10 to exit 281 S. Follow 83 to Sonoita.
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great ride to get to. It's a very small place, but one that can take many, many hours — even days – to fully take in. Bear in mind that this city has survived solely on the tourist trade since the mines played out — which means it has the capacity to be an expensive adventure. If you want to go inside of the OK Corral and check it out, you have to pay. If you want to ride through town in a horse-drawn covered wagon, while a very informed and entertaining cowboy team driver tells you all about who got shot where, and when, and why — get your wallet out. I've never done these things, but I'm sure they're fun, educational, and worth the meager charges.
Boot Hill, by the way, is not just a place in Tombstone. Boot Hill was the name frequently given to a town's common cemetery. There are also famous Boot Hills located in many other old west cities – Dodge City being the most notorious of that list. Oddly, Wyatt Earp worked as a peace officer in both Dodge City and Tombstone — doubtless making his contributions to each city's Boot Hill registers.
Unlike any other tourist-based city I've ever been to, Tombstone offers very reasonable rates on the necessities: rooms, fuel, food, and drink. And there's a ton of free stuff — enough to satisfy anyone's appetite for history, scenery, or western flavor. If you're inclined to walk through Boot Hill and read the inscriptions on headstones, there's no cost. On the trip that provoked this article, I spent almost three hours in Big Nose Kate's Saloon chatting with employees, bikers, and residents — and admiring the vast array of intriguing memorabilia that graces the walls. (Big Nose Kate was Doc Holliday's girlfriend, but local lore has it she was the girlfriend of many Tombstone residents — permanent and transient.) The walls and ceiling of the establishment that still bears her name are literally covered with fascinating items of interest dating back to the start of this proud, historic community. Waitresses are transformed into dance hall girls by period costumes, and frequently the appropriate accompanying attitude. Anyway, there's plenty to do in Tombstone, even if you don't want to keep dragging your wallet out.
Just a block away from Kate's you can visit the office of the Tombstone Epitaph, arguably the most famous of all old west newspapers. Here you can read the original, yellowed copies of the front pages of famous editions. Read accounts of what happened at the OK Corral, and catch up on Wyatt Earp's murder trial, or his short-lived professional boxing career. After all that reading, you'll appreciate The Crystal Palace Saloon's close proximity, and their very cold selection of beers.
I love coffee, and I'm a movie buff, so one of my favorite things to do in Tombstone is visit the Tombstone Coffee & Tea Company on Allen Street. In the middle of their floor they have the stagecoach that was used in the production of the movie Stagecoach — John Ford's illustrious cinematic epic that launched John Wayne's incomparable career. You can't climb on it or get in it, but you can get right next to it for some super make-your-friends-jealous photos. They also have an array of shadow boxes containing the personal affects of various erstwhile notables. Oh, and the java here is also excellent.
Cyberphiles will be glad to hear there's a place to get coffee, snacks, and check e-mail — or just do some web surfing. The Gitt Wired Internet Café is at 505 E. Fremont St. (Hwy. 80). This is a good place to meet interesting locals and travelers alike. Or, you can simply relax and watch the constant, intermittent streams of motorcycles passing through town on their way to Bisbee, another super Arizona destination.
There are a hundred reasons to ride to Tombstone, but not enough space here to present them all. In closing, however, I'll share one more — admittedly, it's a shallow one. It's so you can say you've been there. When I'm talking rides with other bikers, and I speak of Fresno, CA or Missoula, MT or Sheridan, WY they politely listen, but when I say the word Tombstone — ears perk up, the questions begin, and somebody buys me a cold one. So gas up, check the oil and tires, and head for Tombstone. It'll be an exhilarating adventure back in time. One that everyone will want to hear about — more than once.
Ned Kalbfleish
Brief History: Tombstone, Arizona was founded and named by Edward Schieffelin and Richard K. Gird in March of 1879. At that time there were only 40 cabins and about 100 people. Silver mining (an estimated $85,000,000 strike) caused the town to boom – especially the saloons, gambling houses, and red light districts. By the 1890's roughly 15,000 people lived and worked in the then "huge" city of Tombstone. Shortly thereafter, the mines all either played out or flooded, and the city's ebb began.
Obscure & Interesting: In May of 1882, just weeks after the end of the Cochise County War, President Chester A. Arthur's dispatch arrived in Tombstone warning the heretofore warring Earps and Cowboys (the Cowboys were a large group of red sash-wearing outlaws, thought by some to represent the first organized crime in the United States) to "disperse and retire peaceably" or the US Army would be sent to "restore order."
Some Helpful Data: Elevation: 4,540 feet. Geography: built on a mesa between the Dragoon and Huachuca Mountain ranges. Weather: (April through August) nights in the high 40°'s and 50°'s, days in the 80°'s and 90°'s. Intense sun, negligible precipitation.
What Makes It Special: Dragoon Mountains, Geronimo, Natchez, Huachuca Mountains, Doc Holliday, Bat Masterson. Wyatt, Virgil and Morgan Earp, Curly Bill Brocius, OK Corral, Johnny Ringo, William F. Claiborne a.k.a. Billy The Kid, The Clantons, The McLaurys, Big Nose Kate, Cochise County War, great roads, bikers are always welcome, and there are plenty of friendly folks. Ghost Towns: this area is replete with ghost towns – real ones! If you'd like information, locations, and listings of these, I'd suggest visiting a neat little website: http://www.ghosttowns.com/states/az/az.html
Additional Information: Tombstone Chamber of Commerce P.O. Box 995 • Tombstone, Arizona 85638 1-888-457-3929 http://www.cityoftombstone.com