Original publication: BikerTrash.com
Original byline: Not confirmed
THE DIARY
Note: The following story is about a 3 months journey so one should expect some lengthy text and somewhat long loading delays… If printed, it would amount to around 40 pages. The cost and time conscious readers should consider printing the files (I broke up the story in 5 legs) and reading it off line, if they can dispense with the pictures and the links provided within.
PROLOGUE
Trip Map
On April the 21st 1998, I was 50 years old. Years earlier, I had been thinking of ways to celebrate that event the way it should be. It had been almost 10 years since I had come back to motorcycling. I had spent most of my teens on two wheels but I had switched to cars for convenience.
Every summer, relatives and friends of mine would join me on rides that would take us for weeks and thousands of kilometers through various regions of Quebec, the Atlantic Provinces and the North Eastern States. After that many rides, I knew I liked riding, despite the occasional showers, the road fatigue and the rare mishaps. Since 1988, I had tried touring with a 450 Suzuki, a 1100 Yamaha Maxim and finally a Yamaha Venture Royale.
So the idea of a really long touring ride all over North America came to me naturally and I would accept no objection to my project. In fact, nobody, not even my wife, did really object. Everybody must have thought then that I would come to my senses by myself; they just had to wait…
Of course I started dreaming, shuffling through my National Geographic magazines, studying maps and surfing the World Wide Web for sites worth visiting along my still hypothetic itinerary.
I had the feeling that for such a journey to be something other than a race, I had to plan for much time away from home. My many rides had taught me that 250 miles a day was an easy pace but could hardly allow for extensive visits. And I knew that some visits I had to do; after all, this big a trip you do not expect to repeat often. The 19,000 miles or so meant more than 2 months of riding so I figured an extra month visiting and enjoying myself along the way.
Working for the government, I get 4 weeks of vacation each year. In order to have 12 weeks, I had to save these precious vacation weeks for two years and add them my 1998 vacation weeks. I had to plan that trip for years before going and I was lucky my bosses authorized me to cumulate these vacations.
My project was appealing to friends and relatives and I was expecting I could share this experience with a riding buddy or two. (My wife and my relatives were secretly hoping too that someone else would come along and watch for me…) In fact I even had contacts made through Internet which added to the list of « potentials ». But that ride was not something one can jump in on impulse and most did not have sufficient previous planning to realistically be part of the trip.
One riding buddy did enlist, Scott from Ottawa, riding a Yamaha Venture as well. As a first test together, we had planned to ride the Blue Ridge Parkway for 10 days during September of 1997. Fate had decided something else.
On the weeks preceding this autumn ride, I was run off the road by a drunken driver. The Venture Royal was a total loss and I suffered a broken neck in the wreck. This could have changed my plans a lot for my 50th birthday and the years to come… This is how I experienced involuntarily 3 months off from the office before my actual trip: I was on sick leave, half of it with a cervical collar to help my neck heal.
Now, you can figure that my wife and my family were becoming less enthusiastic about my project… But as soon as I felt well enough, I started looking for a new motorcycle for my trip. And this is how, by early November, I rode home my 1989 Gold Wing, 2 months after my accident and one week before the first snow fall!
After a long winter, with much more time devoted to more preparation, on May the 1st 1998, I headed off Beauport, near Quebec City, for the biggest ride of my life, a 3 month journey around North America.
First leg: FLORIDA (Québec-New Orleans)
Day 1.
On the morning of Friday, May the 1st 1998, I woke up with feverishness. Usually a sound sleeper, I think my mind had wandered all through the previous night. Yet, I did not feel tired. I did not feel hungry either; I was rather anxious to get on my way. I had a long riding day ahead of me to meet Scott near Plattsburg, 450 km away from home.
After years of planning and preparation, I was finally to begin my long ride around North America: my 50 Craze. The snow had melted from the roads weeks ago but my own driveway has been cleared only days ago. Trapped in my garage all winter, my Gold Wing had rested and was ready to go and haul its matching trailer.
Around 8:00, Guy arrived on his Yamaha Venture. He was to come along as far as Montreal, pleased to have a feel of the excitement of my long journey. My wife Lucienne drove along as well as far as Drummondville, having to go back to work for a few weeks before she would join me in New Orleans.
It was sunny and even warmer than expected for that early in spring: 23 C.; Mother Nature was apparently approving of my enterprise. I guess the exhilaration I felt had many other sources as well: it was my first spring ride after the long winter, it was my first real ride on my Gold Wing since it had replaced my Venture last fall, I was 50 years old and feeling good and, most of all, I was beginning the fabulous ride I had been dreaming of for the past few years.
Quebec to Montreal was done easily in 3-½ hr., with not much traffic on highway 20. The sight of damaged trees nearing Montreal, a remnant of the famed ice storms that plagued this area last winter, elicited some sorrow in my heart. I had seen the same scenery in winter, at the time where the electric lines were down, the poles broken and the army vehicles were working in the snow: it had stricken me as a war scene… right here in my country, not on TV!
From Montreal, I rode on Interstate 87 toward Plattsburg. Although a large highway, I 87 is pleasing to ride for its good pavement conditions, its curves and slopes and the beautiful scenery in the mountains near Lake Champlain. Each year, I enjoy this road going to Americade. This is a trip I have to dispense with this year, but I am not complaining.
My ridding buddy, Scott, and I had planned on meeting near Plattsburg. Coming down from Ottawa, Scott was to ride through the mountains of the Lake Placid region, with some risk of snow and colder temperatures. We had agreed to join at the first restaurant by the road US-9 in Ausable Chasm, between 14:00 and 15:00. We were both there at said time and glad to congratulate each other.
We still had an hour or so to reach Lake George and we kept on US-9, a particularly attractive road with many twisting curves amidst big pines. Even pulling a trailer, the Gold Wing felt much sportier than I expected and I pushed it a bit. What a treat for a first ride!
Once in Lake George, we went looking for the motel where I had made reservations through Internet. Americade bikers know the owner, Scott, as he hosts many on his premises. We had some difficulty finding his place but finally got there. Poor Scott was sick in bed with hay fever but got up to meet us anyway. His motel was not available due to some renovation in process but he had a complete house for us to enjoy as a most favorable alternative. We were getting spoiled on our very first night!
Days 2 and 3
We had been blessed with sunny sky on day 1 but there was rain the following morning. Scott resisted using his rain gear (since he hadn’t brought any!!) hoping it would lure the sun out. Maybe he was right but it took half a day to happen… Getting to Wilmington (near Hartford, CT) was wet riding on highways with increasing traffic. Fortunately, we had only 300 km to cover and the sun was shining once we arrived at Doug’s, Scott’s younger brother.
After hamburgers on charcoal, we took advantage of the then sunny day to rest from the long ride by hiking in the Devils Hopyard Park. Later in the evening, we enjoyed playing with Doug’s HO trains.
On the next morning, a dense fog was floating over the lake but the sun did away with it after a few hours. Nearby Essex features an interesting ride aboard an authentic steam train and river boat. Later in the afternoon, we climbed on top of the mountain to visit the Gillette Castle we had seen from the lake while cruising. This castle is probably the ugliest construction you can find, suggesting the mansion of Frankenstein. Nevertheless, it looks impressive, overlooking the lake below, seemingly to watch for and scare away any intruder.
Its builder, Mr. Gillette, also had other tricks to scare his visitors. We walked on the paths of the private railway he had constructed on his premises, some hardly holding to the cliffs dropping in the lake. Stories tell of Mr. Gillette’s fancy scaring his friends by riding his train flat out on these narrow rails seemingly hanging in the air… Days 4 and 5
After a relaxing weekend, it was time to get back on the road. When looking at the map, neither Scott nor I fancied the idea of riding the shortest route from Hartford to Philadelphia as it meant going through New York metropolitan area, amid the Monday morning traffic.
My previous contacts through Internet had arranged for a meeting with Bill, a Venture rider known to Scott, along highway 84, to share a lunch together. In spite of Scott still wearing no rain suit, the rain began lightly just as we were nearing our meeting point so we settled for lunch in Milford where we all introduced ourselves and chatted about motorcycling, of course.
After lunch, it was still raining but Bill led us on a nice route winding through a beautiful forest to his home in Bethlehem for a try at printing some files and looking up our e-mail messages. Bill then instructed Scott on how to ride through Philadelphia without fuss. Bill’s directions and Scott’s scrupulous compliance made a zip out of what could have proven a nightmare.
We still had a long way to ride to meet our next friends in Seaford, Delaware. Road US-13 was long and dull but, after more than 500 km, it led to a warm and very friendly home. Diane and Bob are both riders and had gracefully accepted to let us camp in their backyard. Considering the adverse weather conditions, Scott and I were easily convinced to camp in the living room while the bikes were sheltered in the barn.
The following morning was still cloudy and more rain was expected as we departed from our new friends, heading south toward Chesapeake Bay and Norfolk, Virginia. We wanted to experience the long bridge/tunnel crossing this bay, hoping to witness some navy ships at the same time. This long bridge/tunnel is an impressive construction one can better appreciate from a distance: once you are on it, you lose sight of it and you have no place to stop for a picture before you are on the other side of the bay.
Before entering Norfolk, we stopped for lunch at a small snack. I like seafood and was delighted at the prospect of a crab burger… Scott chose to go along with my choice. We both were surprised at the sight of the plate: trapped in a hamburger roll was a whole crab, oil fried with all its features, legs, eyes and all, with nothing else at all, not even a drop of mayonnaise… I am sure Scott still has a vivid souvenir of this snack!
But Norfolk had more for us to remember. Scott has much interest for machines and mechanic stuff so he was pleased to visit the US Naval Base. From the information we had obtained on the Web, we knew ships could only be visited during weekends. We had to satisfy ourselves with the bus ride around the piers, looking at the submarines, the destroyers and the aircraft carriers from a distance. This visit proved too superficial to our liking, with many childish jokes from the young guides and too much time spent showing living quarters or warehouses.
Leaving Norfolk after the visit proved another major disappointment. First, we headed the wrong direction, going west where we should have been headed east. When we realized we were going the wrong way, we had trouble turning around because the road signs were giving false information. After turning round a few times, having lost one hour and rode all the tunnels in Norfolk, we were back on US-258 toward Rocky Mount, North Carolina.
At last, this was a relaxing road with not much traffic, winding through trees in the country: the kind of road it feels good to ride on, especially after the stressful episode in Norfolk. Dawn was coming fast though and we had to settle in a small motel in Scotland Neck. Sleep came early on this night, having ridden more than 600 km, some of which under rain and in heavy traffic in a big town we had trouble getting out of.
Days 6, 7 and 8
Looking at the map, we agreed to ride as much as we could on this day to build up a margin of safety. The fact was we had to get to Jacksonville in time to meet Jodi, Scott’s daughter flying in from Ottawa. Her flight was to land in Jacksonville around noon the following day and we wanted to be there early enough.
This is why we chose to ride on Interstate 95 part of the day. Many « snow birds » from Quebec know very well this highway going south to Florida. Riding on it, at high speed on this long hot day amid the many vans driving much faster yet did not prove a pleasing experience. Instead, it was a stressful and long tiring ride from Fayetteville, North Carolina, to Savannah, Georgia, except for a some 100 km we rode on parallel secondary roads.
Entering South Carolina, we stopped at South of the Border for lunch and expected to meet one biker cyberfriend who could not show up. On this 700 km ride, we did manage to have a special dinner with a birthday cake for Scott’s 47th birthday. I think he would not have liked a crab burger this time…
A note to travelers: you better stay on the highway to find a safe motel than try find one in downtown. As Scott noted, when the motel you find has a vacant parking, cardboard blocked windows, an electric locking front door and a bulletproof window at the register counter, it could mean an unfriendly area where it is unsafe to leave your bike all by itself for the night…
The next morning, from Savannah to Jacksonville, Florida was a short easy 155 km ride, under cloudy skies. We rented a motel near the airport and Scott was off to meet Jodi while I went downtown Jacksonville in search of a link with Internet. I did not find any but had a good time fooling around Jax Landing. The sun had finally decided to be up to Florida’s reputation and I was back at the motel for a dip in the pool.
Scott and Jodi came back from a ride and we all went for a fine dinner in a nice restaurant. The evening was still quite comfortable and we decided to have a ride to the beach on Amelia Island where many fishermen and hikers were still enjoying the breeze. On our way back at the motel, there seemed to have been a minor accident on the road, which I could not quite figure. Once at the motel, Scott indicated that a truck had hit an alligator on the pavement, a few minutes before we had passed. If we had arrived at that spot three minutes earlier, our journey could have ended in Jacksonville! Scary…
Next day was another short 150 km ride to St-Augustine, boasting to be the first city in America. We enjoyed walking around this old Spanish town, visiting the many souvenir shops and tourist attractions. I had forgotten my camera on the floor of a tour office but was lucky enough to pick it back when I returned. Considering the 44 rolls of film I took back home, this would have been a major loss!
We have been in Florida for two days only and were already experiencing very warm weather. We were now trying to choose campgrounds providing cool swimming pools. By the sea, coming out of St-Augustine, we found many expensive campgrounds with some available sites but the road repairs had made their pools unusable. We had to endure strong winds coming from the open sea to reach Marineland, where we finally found an affordable camping, with lots of available tent sites and a pool we could enjoy.
Day 9
Our next stop was in Daytona Beach. I had planned to meet a local biker but could not get in touch with him either. We stopped at a Honda dealer as I was looking for a Belly Pan but they did not carry Tulsa Enterprises Products. One salesman was very helpful though indicating a scenic route to get to Cape Canaveral through a wildlife refuge.
We spent a few hours at Kennedy Space Center; this was a very interesting visit during which we could stay out of the now blazing sun. Most of the features are free at the main reception center except for the Imax movie, which is worth the entry fee anyway. We dispensed with the bus ride to the launching pad but did walk by the huge rockets exhibited there, one gets the feel of the amount of work and scientific knowledge involved in the Space program. This attraction is a must for any traveler in Florida and a guaranteed hit with your kids.
From Cape Canaveral to Orlando, we opted for the alternate route rather than the Bee Line Expressway. I am still unsure whether it was the right choice since we had moderate traffic and many traffic lights. We reached Kissimmee KOA where I had made reservations for the next 4 days before leaving home.
Of course, Disney s attraction parks were my next item on the agenda.
Days 10 to 13
I wanted to spend the 4 next days visiting Disney World while Scott and Jodi were planning other activities. Hopping on the shuttle bus from the campground, I was at the ticket booths at 9. I bought the Value Pass giving access to four different parks over the next 4 days. I started with Epcot Center.
One does not have to be a kid to enjoy Epcot Center. The front exhibits feature many recent technological developments sure to fire one’s imagination. Frequent references are made to ecology and environmental care.
Further on the premises lies what looks like a colorful village around a lake. The overall picture is one of an international exhibition with the individual flavor of a dozen or so different countries: walking around the lake, you walk around the world!
Entertainment makes use of every technological breakthrough: lasers, holograms, robots, simulators. The illusions are shaking. And, if they warn you of the possibility of getting wet, believe it: you will!
At the end of the day, even running around and skipping meals, one cannot see it all. However, even if you are tired, you should stay for the fireworks with music and lasers at the end of the day.
MGM Studios offers a full day of excitement related to movies. You can witness a demonstration of stunts from Indiana Jones and learn how they realize special effects.
Magic Kingdom is more kid oriented but adults can still find excitement in some rides.
Animal Kingdom features a safari during which you help catch poachers. Personally, I have seen more animals by the roads in the Rockies and in Yellowstone than at Animal Kingdom… Was it he heat or was I fed up with this attraction, I spent only half a day there and was back at the campground getting ready to leave the following morning.
Before going visiting Animal Kingdom, I took advantage of KOA 800 reservation line to have a tent site waiting for me in Fiesta Key on Key Largo for the next 3 days. Having to take Jodi back to Jacksonville on Monday for her to fly home, Scott will not come along on the Keys. Instead, he will spend a few days on the beach with his daughter before heading up to Jacksonville. We arrange to meet again in Crystal River, on Florida s West coast, on the next Tuesday.
All 4 days spent in Kissimmee were hot (around 90 F) and indoor and water attractions were most popular.
Overall, Disney World has something for everyone, adult or child. The size of the property is really impressive and you just wonder at the work done to transform these marshes in a beautiful domain. More than 50,000 employees work there regularly. The managerial and support services are hidden underground.
Everything looks brand new and is kept clean. Ecology is a major preoccupation on the site. Transportation is very well organized in and between the parks. You can always find information and help from the ever present attendants, making the site one safe place to visit.
On the down side though, I have to point out that eating is expensive and that you find mostly fast food. My advice is, for diet and economy, bring your own lunch. The many Disney souvenir shops and clothes boutiques gave a too insisting commercial taste to the exhibits, in my opinion.
The popularity of these parks brings thousands of visitors each day so one should expect long waiting lines at most exhibits. Surprisingly, you are fooled at the gates for you do not see that many people standing in line. But, once you get inside, be prepared for long lines you could not suspect from outside…
Days 14, 15 and 16
Scott and I both left early this morning, the fog still floating in the air. After 4 days of walking and visiting Disney World, it feels good to get back on the Wing and ride.
I leave Kissimmee on I-4 but I switch to US-27 to ride around Lake Okeechobee. The land is flat and dull in the middle of Florida: appropriate for growing vegetables and fruits as well as grazing cattle. There are not many trees to give shade though and I looked for some cool restaurant for lunch when I reached Homestead at 14:00.
I noticed road signs warning not to pick up hitchhikers. I figured it out when I realized that Florida has constructed big correctional facilities in this remote area. When you go through road repairs, you see convicts doing the work while armed guards are standing by.
You do not realize you have reached the Keys until you see the ocean. You cannot see the beaches through the thick hedgerows bordering the road. Once you can peek at the sea, it is emerald colored as in the Caribbeans. At 17:30, after riding 562 km, Moose is camped at Fiesta Key KOA, a jewel of a campground with a marina, a Jacuzzi and the nicest view on the sunset in the Gulf of Mexico. Nights stay warm even with the cool breeze from the sea.
The next day is devoted to finding an Internet link and to swimming in the sea under the burning sun. Finding an Internet link provider is not as easy as I was expecting. Not many people know anything about Internet cafés, even when there is one in their locality. I am sent to public libraries, few of them having Internet links available. Aside from Key West, I found only one shop providing Internet access, although at an expensive rate. But I needed to get in touch with a biker friend from Dallas who would possibly ride the Big Bend with me.
Swimming felt good in Anne’s Beach even if the under water scenery was far from exciting. I had expected to see corals and colorful fishes, but for these you need to buy a tour and go further away from the shore, it seems. I was careless enough to swim without sun protection so I got sunburns I will endure for the next several days and nights.
The following day, I ride to Key West, 100 km away. Key West is an attractive town with many pastel colored houses, tourist shops, palm trees and the ever-present emerald sea. Those who have seen the Caribbeans will find many similarities. (By the time I write this report, I am glad I visited Key West early this summer as hurricane George has done major damage in the area in September.)
Key West is the most southerly spot in the USA. You can also sneak into some fancy marinas and hotels. The US base is almost inconspicuous. Walking in the streets in Key West feels like vacation. I had lunch at the Hard Rock Café, a favorite stop I try to find everywhere I travel. Strolling in the back streets, I stumble on Hemingway’s house. While the sun is at its peak, I plan to enjoy the coolness of an Internet Café where I can look up my e-mails and reply to them. Unfortunately, Yahoo Mail is out of order…
I am back at Key Largo for dinner, wondering how I will organize my ride in the Everglades tomorrow.
Day 17
Last night was hell: some camping neighbor slept with his radio on all night and my sunburn is itching so I did not sleep at all. I am up as soon as the sun lights up, looking at the map and trying to decide what I will do. I had thought of leaving the trailer and the camping gear in Key Largo while I would ride to Flamingo but I realize this is too much mileage to come back here at the end of a long ride under the blazing sun. So I pack up and leave the Keys toward Flamingo.
My first stop in the Everglades features every typical sight I expected to take pictures of: alligators, marshes, herons, etc. The sun is blazing again and I rush back on the Wing to Flamingo. Forty miles can be quite a distance when you ride alone in the Everglades under a burning sun with nothing in sight to provide shade and mosquitoes whenever you stop to take a sip of your not so cool water. This is no place you want to be stranded with a flat tire or another mechanical problem.
Once in Flamingo, you find a resort and a visitor center where you can rent a boat for a ride in the marshes. You can also enjoy a meal in the air-conditioned restaurant while viewing the green waters and the racing boats. And then, you have to get on your bike and ride back toward Homestead as the road goes around the Everglades, not through it. I would have had remorse if I had not ridden to Flamingo, being that near, but I cannot say it was worth the extra mileage.
Riding around the Everglades on 997 and US-41 was not very exciting either: these are long, straight, flat and dull roads, especially after a night without sleep… Fortunately, the Wing did not mind speeding a bit.
Along Alligator Alley, the canals host many alligators you can see under the shaggy trees. I guess one could venture in taking shots of them but I did not feel like it at the time… I had been advised to enjoy the 2 hour bus ride at Shark Valley but I got there too late, the last having left at 15:00. I tried to find a hydroplane ride further on the way but, again, my timing was wrong.
So, I was left with no other choice than to ride to Naples to find a motel for the night as I was in no mood for camping. Thanks to a soothing cream and the air conditioning, I had a good night sleep, at last.
I had great expectations with regards with the Everglades but I had not planned it well and ended up riding more than visiting the actual features of this park. On top of that, I was not in the best possible shape because of my sunburns and the lack of sleep so I rushed through it in one day. To really experience the Everglades, I should have planned more time to enjoy the bus ride and a boat ride in the marshes with a guide.
Days 18, 19 and 20
Meeting Bill near Philadelphia had provided me with a contact in Sarasota. A phone call set a meeting with Brooks for lunch. He also suggested a ride on Captiva and Sanibel Islands coming up the coast. After a full night rest and the sun shining invitingly, I opted to visit along this attractive West Florida coast, riding on US-41.
From Naples up, this West coast proved much more attractive than the East coast of Florida. The cities look clean and well kept, hosting many wealthy retirees in fancy resorts among beautiful golf courses. Captiva and Sanibel proved even more enticing with their controlled access islands on which the climate and the life rhythm spells easy going and ecology.
This relaxed visit makes me late and I will not get to lunch with Brooks. Even going back on I-75, I won’t be in Sarasota until mid afternoon. Brooks is proud to show his mint Venture; he is going to ride it west with friends this summer. We discuss the possibility of meeting again near Salt Lake City during their ride.
Going back on the coast and US-41 and US-19, I ride north by Tampa and take a picture of this beautiful bridge. In St. Petersburg, I find a KOA camp site by the lake and a great heron inspects my gear. I ride back in Gulfport for dinner and try, unsuccessfully, to find an Internet access. On the other hand, I can look at fireworks before coming back to the campsite.
On the next day, I only have 270 km to ride to meet Scott. So I can take my time and try again to find an Internet link. No cyber-cafe in the area but a public library can connect me. But, again, Yahoo Mail is out of order… This Internet connectivity is getting frustrating!
Lake Rousseau Camping in Crystal River is not loudly advertising its premises: I inquire often and search half an hour before I finally get there. This is a quiet and remote area, known mainly to regular campers. Scott is there as expected. We go for a swim and ride back into town for dinner. We visit the area, marveling at the water channels, the big yachts and the fancy houses.
We leave Crystal River early in the morning; the sun is just rising and the fog makes the ride chilly for the first hour. We decide to detour and visit Cedar Key. This small fishermen harbor on the coast is a very attractive place one would pick as a rest haven. We will spend a few hours walking around the village and having breakfast in a friendly shop on the pier.
When we leave, around 11:00, the sun is already burning hot and we have to wet our T-shirts repeatedly. We stop in Perry, hoping to get e-mail connection at the local public library while enjoying some cool air conditioning but only members can use the Net link… In his old drug store, an elderly cashier cooks us a simple meal while we look around his antique stock.
Unexpectedly, we find a KOA in Alligator Point, a sandy beach by the Gulf of Mexico. The spot is beautiful but windy and far away from any restaurant. So we cook our own dinner on the campground. We walk by the shore and watch fishers on a pier. We also notice how the houses rest on high poles, reminding us of the gusty winds and high waves from hurricanes, frequent in the Gulf of Mexico.
Back at the campsite, Scott checks the wheels on my trailer as one seems to leak grease: the bearing seems in good condition. He fits a plastic sheet under the hub to prevent more leakage. I will have no more trouble with it. We then study the map and Scott realizes he has only 4 days left before getting back to work. He also wanted to ride the Blue Ridge Parkway up toward Philadelphia where he wishes to meet again with Bill. Even leaving early tomorrow morning, he will have long and hard riding hours on the coming days…
Days 21, 22 and 23
Scott left very early indeed and I just had time to wave him good by from inside my tent. Ride safe, my friend. I feel a little lazy now, being all by myself again. It is my turn now to do some planning: 3 days from today, I have to meet my wife flying in New Orleans from Quebec to ride the canyons with me. Looking at the map, I figure that if I push it a little bit, I can ride the Natchez Trace before getting in New Orleans.
I ride on US-98, following the shoreline, the sandy beaches blinding white under an ever blazing sun. By early afternoon, I am in Panama City. I find a cool public library with Internet access and, at last, Yahoo Mail is back in business! So, I spend a few hours getting my messages, replying to them and giving news to friends at home and at work.
I lose time and direction trying to find Pensacola KOA. Finally, I end up in a cheap motel by I-10, near Loxley, after 520 km.
Looking at the map again before leaving on the next morning, I figure I cannot reach Biloxi and ride the Natchez Trace on the same day so I decide to head toward Natchez: I will be back in Biloxi later, with Lucienne from New Orleans. Riding I-10 and then US-49 North, I reach Utica by mid afternoon. A few miles further, I come across the famous Natchez Trace.
While riding toward it, I had begun fantasizing that this trace might be a barely rideable path and that I would have ridden all this distance in vain. Fortunately, even if it is obviously not built to sustain heavy traffic, the Natchez Trace has real road features. It is a narrow Park road, winding through the back country amid forests and farmlands.
From place to place, you find posts by the road, commenting some historical points of interest. At the south end of the Trace, you find a state Park with camping facilities. Riding the 89 miles from Nashville to Natchez on the Trace is slower, but a lot more pleasing ride than the US 55 and, next time I ride to New Orleans, I will be back on this Natchez Trace. The main reason I wanted to go to Natchez was to see the sophisticated mansions built in the cotton plantations era, among which the LongWood Manor I had read about. By the time I reached Natchez, it was too late to visit any of these but I could do it on the next day.
So, I went back into the Natchez State Park to camp for the night.
The next morning, I was up early to take pictures of the beautiful mansions in Natchez and I am glad I took the time to visit LongWood Manor. This mansion is really impressive even if it was never completed. The story about his owner and his wife is very interesting too.
My visits completed, I rush down to New Orleans on US-61 south and I-10, passing by Baton Rouge. I reach Kenner and the motel I had made reservation to, near the airport, only half an hour before the scheduled landing time of my wife s plane. I manage to shower, change and get to the airport just in time to meet her picking up her luggage. Talk about a close call! Back at the motel, Lucienne can’t wait to go to downtown New Orleans and feel the Cajun atmosphere. So I tie down the trailer in the parking and wash the Wing before we ride to the French Quarter, only 20 minutes away on the freeway. Once in the French Quarter, you can find many parking lots but few if any allow motorcycles to park. I did park anyway, as did many other bikers but had a lecture from the attendant when I picked my bike at the end of the evening.
This is Saturday night and there are a lot of people strolling on the sidewalks and in the streets. The atmosphere is lively, music everywhere in shops and restaurants, performers in the streets: you feel like dancing, stomping feet and clapping hands even while dinning! Better forget quiet romantic meal over there: you are more likely to eat by a noisy band, hopefully playing in tune…
One thing that struck me was the gorgeous look of these old buildings with their beautiful iron handrails. Most cities tear down their old buildings for security reasons; New Orleans chose rather to hold them upright and keep their original looks. And they look good too. We knew we were in a tourist trap but we were enjoying it nevertheless.
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