Originally published in Motorcycles On The Road Again, February 2007.
When you are planning that spe- Cial trip to ride the Rockies in northern New Mexico and southern Colorado plan to staying at one, or all three, of these very special places. There are located such that you could plan a big loop ride and stay at a different one each night.
Inn at the Delta Espaiola, New Mexico
Heading into Espaöola, New Mexico from the northwest on Highway 84, it is easy to ride by and entirely miss the Inn at The Delta. If you do ride by without stopping though, you will have missed a real treasure. Set well back from the highway Inn at The Delta is a bit hard to spot from the seat of your bike, but take the time and make sure you look for it.
When you step through the adobe gate you encounter the lush garden filled with roses, trumpet vines cactus and other native plants leading the path to the carved wooden door of the office. Freshly baked cookies greet you at check-in and it gets better from there.
This is luxury. Light from the highceiling skylights bath the room in warmth and invite you in. The handcarved wood beams soar above the Mexican tiled floor and streams of golden light paint the rich southwest furnishings, hand carved by local artists while a Kiva fireplace stands ready to take the chill off a cool mountain evening. Relax your bones after riding around the "Land of Enchantment" in one of the room's large whirlpool tub. Unlike most places you are likely to stay, the art work on the wall in the rooms are all original pieces. And if art is your thing in the main house and office you can view the family's private collection of Indian and SpaniSh artwork.
To call the rooms spacious is an understatement. At 600 to 700 square feet both the height of the ceilings and the huge expanse of floor space invite you in to explore. A comfortable COUCh (with pullout), side chairs and a carved armoire define the seating area. In front of a window trimmed in Spanish lace curtains a table and chairs provide a cozy nook for a cup of coffee. The large queen bed is wrapped in crisp linens and topped with a down comforter to dress the carved headboard.
The hand painted tile and sink, and the whirlpool tub give the bathroom even more southwestern flair. Enjoy the late afternoon sun in your own private seating area just outside your door before walking across the parking lot to the bar and grill for an excellent pub meal. This Delta Bar is the origin of the entire Inn. Built in 1949 by the Garcia's (father, Anthony, and his son and daughter -in-law) the family eventually added the adobe structure. The Inn continues to be a family affair. Anthony's granddaughter Delores and her husband Emery Maez run the Inn. (Emery just recently sold his Goldwing Trike and is contemplating a replacement.)
The structure houses 10 large rooms with the office and breakfast room in the original family home. A complimentary breakfast includes hot homemade breakfast burritos, fruit, cereal, sweet breads, juices, coffee assorted teas, and other deli- CiOUS bits and pieces and is served in the original family dining room.
Adjacent to the Inn is a flower shop, restaurant and bar and an events center for weddings or any such festive event you may wish to throw and all is owned and managed by different members of the Garcia family.
If you have a special occasion, just let Delores know. She and her staff will fill your room with flowers, chocolates or even a mariachi band for your arrival and can even arrange for a therapeutic massage in your room to relax you before the shin-dig gets underway!
A local community center with a large size swimming pool, exercise room, and a public library are located just up the road and the Inn has free passes available for their guests.
Espanola, between Santa Fe and Taos, is smack in the middle of the best riding in northern New Mexico. Make the Inn your base camp to explore Taos, Santa Fe, Bandolier National Monument, the Grand Valle and all the area has to offer. If the type of riding you have in mind is the slopes of Taos Ski Resort, this is the place to stay.
Amenities include TV, phone (local calls are free!), fireplace, whirlpool tub, complimentary breakfast and in-room coffee. For techies who can't stand to be away, free highspeed wireless Internet is available in an office specifically for guest who must check e-mail or can't survive away from the office too long!
Inn at The Delta 243 Paseo de Onate Espanola, NM 87532 www.innatthedelta.biz
Chama Trails Inn, Chama, New Mexico
Ride south on Highway 17 from La Manga Pass and Colorado, or north on 84 from Santa Fe or even east on 64 from Farmington. It would seem that in this part of the world, many of New Mexico's great motorcycle roads lead to the village of Chama. The Chama Valley is bordered by three popular wilderness areas: the Carson, Rio Grande and Santa Fe National Forests. At about 7,800 feet Chama is surrounded by high peaks and is also the southern terminus of the Cumbres and Toltec Narrow Gauge Railway. This historic train runs from Antonito, Colorado over the pass and into the town. This train is a celebrity on its own having been featured in several western films.
After the train or a motorcycle ride, the place to stay in Chama is the Chama Trails Inn. Located at the main intersection of Highway 17 and 64, the Inn is unassuming from the roadway, but we suggest you take a closer look. The inviting gazebo, the neatly striped parking lot and the riastras of dried red chilies adorning the porches hint at something more.
Step into the office and note the southwestern art and furnishings. Look up and see a large-scale model train high on the wall and running on a shelf around the room, and spend a few minutes with innkeepers Chester and Starla Maez.
Chester is a long time motorcy- Clist and welcomes bikers to come stay and talk of the rides they experience on the roads the lead to Chama. Wide benches under the porches outside each room offer just the place to sit a spell and chat before entering your room. And take in the view of the setting sun as you talk over the day's ride.
The 16 rooms are decorated with handmade southwestern furniture, antiques and artwork; no two alike (unlike your Hilton and Holiday Inn). Handmade wood shutters cover. The effect is warm and cozy. A comfortable bed is just one of the things you get at the Inn, hand painted tiles are in the bathrooms and handmade wood shutters cover the windows through which you can watch as the sun sets. There is even a large suite available for a family or a group traveling together that includes a fireplace.
Just a short walk across the highway is the High Country Lounge, a big barn of a place where peanut shells litter the floor and rustic antiques and photos adorn the walls. You'll find well prepared and nicely portioned meals. The fare is American and Mexican and the prices, reasonable. (Many more restaurants and shops are just down the road.) Saunter back to the Inn after dinner (in Chama you "saunter") and take THE TRAIL'S END:
advantage of the hot tub, sauna or take the chill off a cool mountain evening by snuggling beneath a sumptuous down comforter.
Unlike many places you might visit, charming Chama has year round
In the spring the midactivities. May snowmelt creates spectacular El Chorro Falls, cascading from the Brazos Cliffs. http://chama.com/vi- Sumtalstatistics/brazoscliffts.jpg mer is outdoor time and if you don't spend it all on the seat of your bike you might find some of the available activities like boating, fishing, hiking, horseback riding, 4-wheeling, or taking a ride on the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad to your liking. Cool evening temperatures in autumn are a wonderful time to watch the mountainsides set afire from the brilliantly colored foliage. When the mountains are blanketed with some of the average snowfall of 102 inches, it's the perfect time to snowmobile or cross-country skiing. The valley is a hunter's dream with an abundance of mule deer and elk. So not only do all roads lead to Chama but there is something to do when you get there!
Amenities include In-room: coffee makers, refrigerators, hair dryers, satellite TV, phones, a gazebo, a hot tub, and a sauna.
Chama Trails Inn
2362 Hwy 17 Chama, NM 87520, USA chamatrailsinn@chamatrailsinn.
com
Bandera's Bunkhouse,
Howard, Colorado
The Arkansas River, all 1450 miles of it, makes its way to the Mississippi through towns like Wichita, Dodge City and Tulsa. But up near its source, high in the Colorado Rockies, the river is still untamed as it makes its turn to the east at Salida and flows down through the town of Howard, Colorado.
Highway 50 will get you there on two wheels or four, a great ride through the river canyon. When you get to Howard, be sure to spend the night at Bandera's Bunkhouse.
Celebrating the rich western heritage of Colorado, hosts Dave and Teresa White have taken an old motel and turned it into a cowboy outpost for both weary travelers and those seeking an authentic Old West experience. After many years in the lodging and hospitality industry, Dave and Teresa decided to take their love of horses and all things western and open Bandera's, named after Dave's horse.
Bandera's is more than a place to rest your head after a day's ride. Breathtaking views of the river and the 13,000-foot peaks of the Sangre de Cristo Mountains make a perfect backdrop for the wagon rides that precede the cowboy steak and chicken dinner and show. The wagon is pulled by an impressive pair of very large Belgian draft horses.
The show features authentic cowboy music, featuring Dave and friends on guitars and harmonica. The music is performed on a stage under the cottonwoods with the Arkansas River behind. Dave sings 'real' cowboy songs and intersperses cowboy history and lore into his performance.
Even the most urbane and jaded visitors will enjoy the show. You may even get to meet Bandera.
The place is definitely different and has that real down home western feeling. In addition to the cowboy dinner and show, fishing, rafting, hiking and trail rides are available nearby.
Accommodations include eight cozy, remodeled bunkhouse rooms and three cabins. A few tent and RV sites are also available. Each of the cabins has full cooking facilities and feature 2 bedrooms. Listen to the sound of the river from the porch.
The Bunkhouse rooms are tastefully decorated in a western theme and have queen and double beds available.
The office area features a room available for special occasions and a there is a café next door.
Getting there. Bandera's is located on Highway 50, 13 miles east of Salida and 45 miles West of Canon City and the Royal Gorge.
Amenities. Peace, quiet and solitude. There is no phone, no Internet, no TV, just the mountains and the river. Cabins have complete kitchens.
Bandera's Bunkhouse Highway 50 Howard, Colorado www.banderasbunkhouse.com
Put a trip to the Rockies in your future.
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